Revised Articles ~ January 2025

Out and about. Honestly, I’ve spent much of Christmas and New Year walking and wandering and wondering, rather than writing. The weather was cold and bright and sharp, so I took full advantage, spending many hours on the Panorama overlooking the Vale of Llangollen, measuring time by the numbness of my fingers and toes. I can’t see myself ever leaving the Vale – I can’t see it ever being possible. Sat atop the climbing rock, I watched the light change – I felt part of the land, at once smaller and greater than the mere sum of my parts. You’ll be perhaps, bored of me mithering on about the nature of connection, but I feel rooted here, and better for it. I wonder if others see what I see, and I’m certain that they do. You spend enough time up here, and you start to see the same people. A silent nod, a smile, a brief, tentative wave – you know they’re feeling what you’re feeling.

The Panorama ~ November 2024

And when I take photographs, I’m trying to capture the essence of a feeling – an emulsion of emotions. A camera captures light – thats all it really does. But the struggle is to wrestle it into capturing my συγκίνηση – how I was feeling when I looked through the lens. That’s my hope when I take photographs from the Panorama, that’s my ambition. I’m not saying I’m any good at it – but I’m trying.

The Climbing Rock ~ tapping into my would-be Ansel Adams

But that’s not to say I haven’t written at all – of course I have. Given that I’ve been bothering the Panorama on a regular basis, I’ve inevitably found my way into Llangollen – which is no mither at all. Coffee and books – the former from the Oggie Shop, the latter at Courtyard Books. And on standing on the Llangollen Bridge, shoulder to shoulder with tourists, tik tokkers and photographers, I thought it high time I looked at adding more information about this Wonder of Wales. I had a high spirited, swivel eyed moment where I considered clambering down onto the rocks amongst the flow to see if I could get some cracking photos – but then I remembered that I’m 54 and the winter rains and the snow melt had made that effort a likely news story. I shall have to wait until the Spring for that, and even then I shall have to be wary.

Llangollen Bridge

It’s a Wonder of Wales, you know (have I mentioned that?), one of the Tri Thlws Cymru and indeed, the Five Beauties of Wales. High praise indeed, and a little biased to the North, you might think, and you’d be right, of course. Can you see me shrug from there? Hiding a little smirk?

Luke Jerram’s fabric covered Bridge ~ July 2021, at the height of the Covid epidemic.

Its fame derives from its antiquity. It’s likely that there has been a bridge across the Dee at this very spot since the town’s foundation in the 6th century. Given that the River is, in fact, fordable in clement weather, I think we’re on sound ground to say that people have been crossing the waters of the sacred Dee here since Prehistoric times, fashioning bridges from wood and clapper stones. It’s thought that the first stone bridge across the Dee was built here, possibly in the 13th century – a note in the Patent Rolls of 1284 speaks of pontage here. But the bridge that you see today, much banged- about-with, dates no earlier than 16th century – which still predates any other bridge over the Dee that we have evidence of.

The Rondle Reade Stone ~ moved to Hall Street from the Bridge in the later 19th century.

We have records of the Bridge being restored, rebuilt, refurbished, extended, widened and built upon throughout the last several hundred years, and even have the name of the fella that would seem to have been in charge of the work in 1656. He left a plaque to himself built into the bridge, subsequently moved to Hall Street after the works of the later 19th century.

Anyways, have a read of the article and let me know what you think. I should mention, that I am always eager to know of any stories, however strange and curious, about the places I visit. If you have any pictures of the Bridge that you would like published on the Website, feel free to send them over to me, and I’ll post them – fully credited of course (unless they’re better than mine, in which case I’ll take the plaudits).*

Caergwrle Castle

Caergwrle is quite the most curious of places. I’ve not long since posted a brief Facebook article on the Castle, and as I was writing it, I remembered that I used to call it Caerquirky. I think it’s fair to say that I loved the place from the off – when I first moved to North Wales some 30 years ago, now. My father-in-law was a bobby here and he has some stories – he’s the one who first mentioned the little ditty which most of those who are famliar with the area will know.

Live in Hope, Die in Caergwrle.

Caergwrle Castle, North Tower ~ January 2025

One of the very many curious aspects of Caergwrle is its origins. Because in fact, it seems it began life as a Mercian, Saxon settlement by the name of Corley ~ the Meadow of the Crane. As is the way of things here in the border areas, it became Cymricised (a bit like myself in fact) into Caergwrle, which then collected about itself a sheath of myth and legend, that of a giant that lived on the hill, by the name of Gwrle and who was subsequently buried at nearby Cefn-y-bedd within a cairn now known as, Arfedogaed y Wrach ~ the Apronful of the Hag.

The castle you see atop the hill was not, in fact the first structure to have been built there. It’s likely that the English workies that arrived here in 1278 to build Dafydd ap Gruffudd’s castle, were confronted with the remains of an early medieval business – perhaps the original settlement, perhaps a fortified structure of sorts. It’s impossible to tell. You can still see the remains of the embankments surrounding the 13th century stone massive. What was its relationship to nearby Wat’s Dyke? Questions, questions – but as yet, no answers.

The ruined north tower, viewed from the later barbican ~ January 2025

As I researched the castle, it really became a story of two brothers – Llywelyn and Dafydd ap Gruffudd, the last two Princes of Gwynedd. The complicated relationship between them, and on the side, the dynamics of the English, Welsh tensions of the time was fascinating. The problem with research is that you can often become dragged away down one line of theory, without noticing you’re actually being pulled away from something far deeper and meaningful. By focusing on the castle, I think I’ve been pulled away from the real story – that of the brothers. In revising the history of the castle, I think I owe it to them to do better. So, while I’ve added a little to my article on Caergwrle Castle, I think you’ll find that it won’t be long before I’m writing far more about Llywelyn and Dafydd.

What next..?

I’m approaching the time when the level of my procrastination is so terribly heavy, that I will simply have to get on and do the work – that of starting to focus on Wrexham. I’ve worked on Flintshire for several years now, and there is work still to be done. I have written absolutely nothing on Buckley, Connah’s Quay, Queensferry and I can only apologise to those of you who live there and have been wondering what on earth I have against you all. The answer is nothing – it’s just I don’t seem to have got around to it. I don’t now why – I shall do better.

But first, I shall be doing some work on the Neolithic caves that are to be found here, following the limestone spine of Clwyd. I have made some initial, fairly brief visits to the Llandegla and Llanarmon areas, if only to face up to the challenge. There’s a substantial number, so it will be one of those articles that will be regularly added to as time goes on.

One of the several Llandegla Neolithic Caves ~ Autumn 2024

And I have plans. Plans to share this amazing bit of Wales with others – perhaps you in fact, if you’ve a mind to join me. Leading guided tours is not something I ever envisaged, you know, but I do like to talk about the places I visit. It strikes me I could be making an effort to help others connect with this environment that I so love. And that connection I often speak of, that sense of being in a spot and feeling like you’ve always been there, a jigsaw piece in a greater picture – an essential part of something far greater than you – pure therapy, it is. And that, I can tell you, is what I’d like to share. Contentment.

Let me know what you think of this, whether you would be interested. I must admit to being so very jaded and worn and weary with the drudgery of wading through the mundane. I want to breathe and I want to twist into the land (yes, I know what that sounds like). Fancy joining me? I imagine there will also be cake and tea.

Castell Dinas Bran ~ November 2024 (those are my footprints…)

If you would like to support Curious Clwyd, there’s no need to do it for nowt. Some of the photos I take I’ve deemed worthy (you may have a different opinion) to sell – as prints and stuff. Pop along to my Picfair site and have a perusal. The support is appreciated.

Curious Clwyd Picfair

* I’m joking, of course…